Colombia Travel Guide
This travel guide for any budget, that follows my backpacking trip in Colombia and features info about:
Cartagena / Santa Marta / Cuidada Perdida Trek / Tayrona National Park / Medellin
Cartagena
Cartagena is a port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. By the sea is the walled Old Town, founded in the 16th century, with squares, cobblestone streets and colorful colonial buildings. With a tropical climate, the city is also a popular beach destination.
Flying To Cartagena
Colombia felt like a challenge when I chose it as my next destination to solo backpack. All I knew of the country was its dangerous past. I could not help but to be drawn to visit a place and I have not heard a lot of people visiting just yet. I felt confident in my skills to be a solo traveler and making Colombia my next trip was the challenge to prove it.
I flew in to the Caribbean of Colombia, starting in the famous old port city of Cartagena.
Most backpacker setup base at hostels inside the old city, and getting there from the airport is not difficult at all. Once you get through customs you want to avoid the many local workers who claim to be government employees, there to help you get your bag and get through the bag check portion of customs. It is not a scam, but a total unnecessary expenses. Getting you bag is easy, and filling out the bag customs form is also very standard. If your Spanish is lacking make sure to have the address and maybe even some screen shots of google maps to show a taxi driver the location of your hostel. If you are staying at some of the more well-known hostels, the drivers tend to know where they are. I only spent one day in Cartagena.
My first day there happened to be election night for the Presidential Election. Colombia as strict laws during an election, and I learned all about them very quickly.
Read my blog about being stuck in Cartagena during an election
Old Walled City - Cartagena
Cartagena's old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town, consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It's one of finest examples of preserved colonial architecture in the Americas, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions with their famous overhanging balconies and shady patios.
The best way to experience the Old Town is to wander in leisurely fashion, savoring the architectural details, street life and local snacks along the way. Nighttime adds a whole different dimension.
Food In Cartagena
From jungle flavors and mountain-grown herbs to fresh Caribbean seafood to all types of pork and beef. The colorful streets of the old-walled city wouldn’t be complete without its many street food stands, which can be found at every corner and in every park and plaza, day or night. The best street food in Cartagena is unique yet traditional, and as a formative component of the character of this lively city, it is not to be missed out on.
You’ll find most of the common lunch classics all over the city, such as Sobrebarriga (a tender meat dish), grilled fish, and Cazuela (a typical soup with either seafood or meat). Most dishes in Colombia are served; with rice, salad, and hot soup of your choice as a starter.
Other common delights are Arepas, Empanandas, Ceviche, and fresh Juices.
Hostel Cartagena Reviews:
One Day Hostel is situated in the Getsemani district in Cartagena de Indias, 800 meters from Cartagena's Gold Museum and 800 meters from San Felipe de Barajas Castle.
The hostel was small, the staff was very friendly and helpful. Seemed to be the popular place for backpacker. People wanted to meet each other and hangout together. I stayed in a four bed dorm room that had its own bathroom. There is more bathrooms out in the common area, as well as a kitchen.
Santa Marta
Santa Marta is a city on the Caribbean Sea in the northern Colombian department of Magdalena. A busy port, it was also the first Spanish settlement in Colombia.
Santa Marta is a busy little down with a central market, and a historical downtown. Along with its beautiful beaches, the nightlife is Santa Marta is for sure something to experience.
Gateway To Adventure
Santa Marta is the jump off point for tons of great things to do in the Caribbean region of Colombia.
Taganga:
A small fishing town north of Santa Marta. This laid back small beach town has beautful small beaches, but is mostly a local fishing town. On the beach you can find some great tradiotnal foods, as well as bars to hang at. Most people come to Taganga to scuba dive, and the town offers multiple companies to chose from. I spent a whole day in town walking around and hanging on the beach. Its a good idea to leave town and head back to Santa Marta at night, unless you already have a hostel in Taganaga. Things can feel a bit shady at night on some of the dark narrow alley ways.
Minca:
Organic coffee farms, jungle hikes and refreshing waterfalls are all par for the course in the picturesque town of Minca, just an hour’s drive from central Santa Marta. Or rent a motorbike in Santa Marta and ride it up to Minca for the day.
Trek to the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida):
A remarkable indigenous citadel pre-dates the Inca and is a spectacular sight to behold among such exotic jungle terrain. Not for the faint of heart, a visit to the archeological site requires a grueling four day trek through unforgiving terrain. My guide to the 4 Day Trek is featured below.
Tayrona National Park:
Lush jungle scenery edges right up to the white sandy beaches and turquoise water for which the park is famed. Set alongside the Carribean Sea, these are some of the best beaches in all of South America. My guide to staying overnight at Tayrona National Park is featured below.
Accomidations In Santa Marta, Colombia
A good tip is to book a hostel with a pool. I split my time in Santa Marta up between two hostels. While I was in town to join a trekking tour I stayed at Hostel Cacao. It was a pretty modern hostel with dorm room and private rooms. The backyard patio space featured a swimming pool and a shaded area with very comfortable hammocks for lounging and beating the heat. The dorm rooms are also air conditioned, and have attached bathrooms with multiple toilets and showers. Each dorm bed also has a locker located under you bed for storage. The A/C runs automatically at a certain time in the evening, and shuts off around 11am the next day. So sleeping in is not always easy to come by in the heat.
Another great part of the Cacao Hostel is the kitchen. They have a really great kitchen with stove, oven, and fridge for guests use. It can save you a ton of money to go shopping at the local store and cool your meals. Also being able to store food is key, so you can prepare some easy lunches to take on your day trips and walk about in town.
If you use Hostel world of Booking.com to book accommodations in Santa Marta, probably the highest rated place will be Dreamer. The location of Dreamer is a bit more inland from the beach town of Santa Marta. Guarded by large wooden doors, once you enter into the location you are surprised by the beauty of the whole yard space. Like most popular youth hostels, the outdoor space and bar is being utilized by all the people visiting from all over the world. When I arrived around 5pm on a Friday, I just finished my 4day Trek in the Colombian jungle. There was Australians playing a competitive game of peer pong with some Americans. People were swimming in the pool, couples having a nice romantic dinner, and others just lounging around at the bar.
I stayed in a 4 Bed Dorm with our own bathroom. The beds were comfortable with charging stations and a light inside of them. Each bed also has its own locker for storage. The bathroom was clean and the shower was really great. Out in the common area there is also one big bathrooms with very clean stalls, showers and sinks.
Ciudad Perdida Trek
The Ciudad Perdida is the archaeological site of an ancient city in Colombia's Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. It is believed to have been founded about 800 CE, some 650 years earlier than Machu Picchu.
The Four day trek itakes you through river crossings, steep hills, and deep into the jungle. Despite being accessible to tourists for the past 10+ years, the Lost City is still surprisingly under-visited.
Go on a 4-day hiking adventure through the Colombian jungle as you trek to the mythical lost city of Ciudad Perdida, which is hidden in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. The Ciudad Perdida Tour and Lost City trek in Colombia is a challenging but fascinating journey that I highly recommend. Trekking through the Colombian jungle for 4 or 5 days is beautiful, sometimes strenuous, always sweaty and at times very wet adventure.
Picking A Tour Company
Like my guide to Acatenango in Guatemala, you have a lot of option on picking what company to go with for your trek adventure. For Cuidad Perdida my research came down to three companies. ExpoTour, Magic Tour, and Wiwa Tour. All three tour companies offer the same basic intenirary on the trek, and most of the time you share the campsites along the way with a few exceptions depending on how many people are treking at one time. I ultimetly with with ExpoTour because of their history have also providing english speaking guides along the trek. I suggest you look into all three companies and get out of your trek all that you want to find.
Once you arrive in Santa Marta, you simply just arrive to the tour office the day before your trek and pay for it and fill out the proper paperwork. You can arrange for you backpack to be stored there as well. The cost of the 4day trek is $1.150.000 COP/PP or about $290 USD. This is expensive by Colombia standards, but trust me its worth it.
What to Pack On The Trek To Cuidad Perdida
Expotour provides you with all your food annd snacks, as well as water. They also provide bedding at the campsites so you will not need any sleeping bags or gear for that matter. Everything you need should fit in your day pack, allowing you leave your main backpack behind. The lighter the better for thid trek as the terrain is very challenging and also wet.
Day Pack: Outlander 35L
1 pair of Shorts
2 t-shirts
1 long sleeve shirt or light sweatshirt
1 waterproof rain jacket
1 bathing suit or boardshorts
1 pair of sandals or water shoes
1 pair of hiking shoes or athletic shoes
Extra socks (very important)
1 refillable water bottle
Addt Accesories: Hat, Flashlight, Suncreen, Mosquito Repellent, Toothbrush and Toothpaste, Soap, Towel, Phone Charger, and *Extra Cash
*Extra Cash: Along the trek you will have oppourtunites to by fresh juices, cold drink and additional snacks. Also at each campsite beer is for sale, and after a long day hiking its a must!
This may not seem like a lot for a 4 day trek, but no matter what, all your clothes will get dirty. I often washed my shorts and tishirts in the river while at camp. It worked out great.
Get My Full Guide to the 4 Day Trek On The Blog
Tayrona National Park
Tayrona National Park, in northern Colombia, is a large protected area covering the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta as they meet the Caribbean coast. It’s known for its palm-shaded coves, coastal lagoons, rainforest and rich biodiversity
Getting Here
From Santa Marta getting to Tayrona is just a local bus ride away. You can arrange shuttle service through your hostel, but it is really not worth it. Head over to the central market and just ask people where the bus to Tayrona picks up. It tooks us a minute to find the stop and the right bus. Just hop on and ride for about 45 minutes to an hour, and th ebus drops you off right outside the gate to the park.
Things To Know Before Going To Tayrona
Passport: Do not forget your passport to get into the park, or just bring a copy of your passport. I always bring in my day pack photo copies of my passport and yellow fever vaccinations.
Yellow Fever Vaccinations: I suggest everyone gets vaccinated before visiting the Caribbean region of Colombia, and It may be required by now as well. In order to get into Tayrona you will need to show proof of vaccinations. Like my passport I carry a copy of my vaccination card with me.
Most hostels can help you to make sure you have all the proper paperwork you need for day trips. It is always a good idea to ask a ton of questions then to not ask at all.
Entrance Fee
The entrance fee is 56,000 COP ($17.50 USD) for foreigners. It is quite pricey by Colombian standards which is why it makes sense to stay longer than 1-2 days. There is also a mandatory insurance fee that you have to pay when you enter the park, which is 2,500 COP per day (less than $1 USD)
I stayed overnight in the park, and it was $10USD for a Hammock at the campsite near the beach.
What To Pack
If you can leave your main backpack at your hostel in Santa Marta. Load up your day pack for this adventure. In your backpack you need:
a towel
sandals
sun screen
a hat
sunglasses
a flashlight
phone charger
water
comfortable shoes for walking and short hikes
cash for food and beer
Food and Drink
It is always a good idea to stock up on water and snacks. Depending on how long you are planning to stay in the park will determine your need. We stayed 2 days and 1 night, so be brought in enough water and snacks to get by for that amount of time. Inside the park you will have many food options at the larger beaches, and if you are adventurous you can find some hidden gems among the palm tree paths.
We found an amazing bakery along the trail from one beach to another. The owner was a really amazing and sweet man, who made some of the most delicious fresh bread I have ever had. We loved his food so much we bought a few sandwiches to pack for meals later in the day. We would go back in the morning for breakfast and fresh made orange juice.
Accomidations (Where to Stay)
As you enter the park, the paths first arrives at a resturant and what appears to be a big open grass field. The field is actually the campgrounds, with a lot of space for tents that a re spreadout all over the ground. Also on the field is a desginated hammock area, which is sort of in the back of the campground.
The hammocks were pretty comfortable, and each one had a mosquito net. The hammock area also had a really good fan to beat the night heat and scare off other insects. You also get a locker to store your stuff. It was certainly not the greatest location, but we were only at the campsite late at night when it was time to sleep.
You can also rent a tent from the park, or just bring your own. We also saw people making camp on some of the smaller beaches. I don’t think this is allowed, but also I dont think anyone really cared.
The campsite has multiple bathrooms with showers. The toilets were pretty gross, but the showers are sort of nice.
As you hike along the path to the more popular beaches, you will find hotel options if that is what you are looking for. If you are trying to stay in a hotel you should book in advance because they fill up quick.
Choose Your Own Adventure
From the campsite you will find a path that leads all throughout the park. Leading you into the jungle and then out onto a beach head. We would just walk the path, taking in the scenery and the sounds of the birds and wildlife. Then when we would reach a beach, we would setup our towels and jump into the water.
Each beach offers its own unique vibe to it, and the people you meet at each one also bring something different to the experience. We meet couples on honeymoon, vagabonds who are traveling for years, and a really cool girl from New York who was camping on the beach by herself.
In between the beaches is a really fun but challenging hike to the El Publito Ruins. The hike is sort of a secret, as we did not encounter many people on the trail or up at the ruins. The ruins are set up in a beautiful setting up in the jungle mountains overlooking the Tayrona beaches.
Eventually we spent a lot of time at beach Cabo San Juan, where we switched from napping, beer drinking, coconut cracking, and swimming. This is truly living your best life and paradise. We met this really cool local scuba instructor and she showed us some other cool beaches and told us stories of growing up in Colombia. As the sunset we hiked back to our campsite, and treated ourselves to a steak dinner and of course more beer.
On our last day we made our way back to Cabo San Juan, where we caught a boat from the beach all the way back to Tagaganga. It was a bit of a challenge to get our ticket and figure out the timing of the boats. Eventually we got on one and the ride was so beautiful. You ride along the shoreline, passing cliffs and more secluded small little beach towns along the way. The ride is very bumpy and wet so you have be warned.
Medellin
Situated in a narrow valley, Medellín packs the punch of a city twice its size. Its skyline reaches for the heavens, setting high-rise apartments and office buildings against a backdrop of jagged peaks in every direction.
Medellin is the second-largest city in Colombia with over two million people living and working here. This city has now risen to be one of the best places to visit in Colombia
Flying to Medellín from Santa Marta
When you start your trip up in the Caribbean area of Colombia you have a few options to start heading South towards the larger cities. If you have the time, taking a bus and making stops in small villages along the way is the best option. If you are short of time, domestic flights within Colombia are very cheap and easy to book. I used Kiwi.com and booked a flight out of Santa Marta to Medellian for $45USD.
Santa Marta has both an International and Domestic airport, so if you also are looking to head to your next country you can fly out of this little airport. Once you arrive at the airpport via taxi, it is really easy to get checked in and go through security. The airport is very clean, and the people working there are very friendly. I flew VivaColombia and had a very positive exprience with both the checking in process, and the flight itself.
Once arriving in Medillin, you can hop on a local bus to take you into the city. It took me a minute or two and asking a few people for help to figure out where the bus picks up and what bus to take. It was a long ride, but worth the exprience and the savings. They drop you off just at the entrance to the center of city right near the metro station. There you will find a bunch of taxis waiting to pick people up.
Accomidations Medellin
You can find a lot of options for places to stay. The most popular for backpackers is staying in the El Poblado, which is Medellín most popular neighborhood for foreigners. Along the little quiet streets you can find a lot of different hostels, and Air B&B apartments. The neighborhood also features nice restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops.
Picking A Hostel
In a city as large as Medellín, you can find a hostel that meets the needs and expectations you have for your trip. For example, you can find a hostel that is good for digital nomads, or one that is best suited for solo travelers, or of course the typical party hostel. For me, what I look for is location and a hostel with a kitchen since I like to cook some of my meals to save money.
You can check out a list of some of the top hostels in the area on Booking.com, or click HERE to read about it now.
Food In Medellin
Traditional Colombian food is not well known as a special cuisine around the world, but local favorites are very delicious. In Medellín you can find favorites like Arepas and Bandeja Paisa all over the city. Both dishes are also a staple with street food vendors. I eat mostly only street food while in Medellin to save money, but to also experience the culture out in the busy city streets, and small Comuna’s in hills.
Public Transportation In Medellin
MetroRail
I was so impressed by the metro system in Medellín. It was easy to figure out, clean, and safe. The rail abd cable car system is the onloy metro system in all of Colombia. Medellin's Metro runs North to South and Centre to West across the city. It's composed of two lines (A & B) that, together, host 27 stations, including ones that will leave you at key touristic sites in the city such as the Plaza de Botero and the Botanical Gardens.
MetroCable
The MetroCable is composed of 3 lines (J, K, and L). You can take the MetroCable to visit Comuna 13, Biblioteca España or Parque Arvi. If you're heading to Parque Arvi, you'll need take line K of the MetroCable and then transfer to line L, also known as CableArvi. To make this transfer, you'll need to buy a separate ticket for CableArví . You can also just ride the MetroCable to get some amazing panoramic views of the city.
Walking Tour and Comuna 13
Tour The City By Foot
The best way to explore a new city and also make some new friends is to link up with a group on a free walking tour. I used Real City Tours while in Medellín and the tour was fantastic. The guide spoke perfect English and was happy to answer all of our questions, and was so patient with us as we crossed the city for three hours. On the walking tour you will also get your first crash course in using the MetroRail system.
During the tour you will discover some of Medellin’s most traditional parks, squares and streets, while learning about the city’s history, culture and people.
Comuna 13
Just a few short years ago, Comuna 13 was considered the most dangerous area in Medellin, Colombia—itself the most dangerous city in the world. Tourists didn’t dare set foot here—they had no reason to—and many locals lived in the ramshackle suburbs that cling to a mountain on Medellin’s western fringe.
Today things have changed dramatically, with the Comuna overtaking a massive transformation. The area is no longer associated with gangs, police raid, and violence. However the history of this neighborhood remains in its peoples stories, and the street art that is beautifully displayed all over the Comuna.
The free walking tour of Comuna 13 is visited daily by tourist due to the regions improvements in infrastructure and access, which include a MetroCable line, and six outdoor escalators. The tour will take you from the bottom of the Comuna all the way to the top, stopping along the way to admire the art and learn about the artist who painted them. On our tour, our guide took us to her home and shown us the typical living situation for most residents, while also telling us her own stories about the dark history of the area. You can learn more about the history of Comuna 13 HERE
Futbol (Soccer) In Medellin
It is no secret that Futbol is a big deal in all of Latin America. This is 100% without exception to Medellín and the local soccer team Alteico Nacional. On gameday the entire city shuts down, so that everyone can watch the game. In the hours leading up to the game the team flag fly’s outside of every buisness and every home. People go out wearing team jerseys, and vendors roam the streets selling more team merchandise.
You can watch the game at any bar and feel the passion and tension of the fans hoping for a victory. When the team scores a goal the ground shakes, and the roar of people can be heard for miles. Once the game ends, and hopefully in a victory it is a huge party all over the city,.
If you are lucky enough to be in Medellín a home game you must go and experience the magic.
Nightlife In Medellin
Medellin has a very live nightlife. Just blocks from the Poblado neighborhood is tons of bars and clubs to choose from. You can also walk to one of the party hostels and join up with one of the bar hoping nights. Th bar hop is led by a few locals, and it’s a lot of fun.
Salsa Dancing
As you night grows into the later hours, you can find some really great Salsa Dancing bars and clubs. The locals will dance the night away in such elegance and the energy of this romantic dance reverbs throughout the bar. We found a small bar, where people sort of just sat in one big circle so others can dance Salsa. I’m not the best dancer, but some local girls did their best to teach me. I preferred to just sit back and watch the professionals dance, it was like a love story was playing out on the dance floor (pure magic).
Note: It is safe at night in most of the tourist neighborhoods. Just be smart about what you do, and always protect your belongings
The People
The people in Medellín are so happy to have you visiting. They are extremely welcoming, warm and friendly. I also found them to be very patient with me and my broken Spanish. Like is most Latin countries it is better to try Spanish and be bad at it, then to just force English onto the locals.
Don’t be suprised when a local comes up to you, gives you a big hug and a kiss on your cheek. Then smile and say “Welcome to Colombia!”
Other Places To Visit In Colombia
My trip in Colombia was not long enough to see more of the country. Some other places to visit are:
Bogota: Bogotá is Colombia’s sprawling, high-altitude capital
Cali: Cali is known as the salsa capital of Colombia, if not the world, and for this reason alone, it is a popular place to visit for those with extra time in the country.
Salento: Salento is an Andean town in Colombia, west of Bogotá. It’s known for its coffee estates and verdant scenery
Guatape: f you're in Medellin and fancy an escape to the country, then Guatapé is a great option for a day-trip or a weekend away.
