Guatemala Travel Guide
Flying To Guatemala City
My first budget backpacking trip was to Guatemala in the Summer of 2017. Leading up to the trip I spent hours watching travel vlogs of the country, mostly videos from Gabriel Traveler.
Given this was my first solo trip, there was certainly a few tools and tricks I was yet to learn, but in every blog I read about Guatemala, the advice was the same; “get out of Guatemala City safely and quickly”.
So as a rookie, I exchanged $200 American dollars into the local currency (quetzal) in the airport….Ouch
A hippie backpacking couple behind me looked shocked and as if they wanted to reach out and yell NOOOO!
Right after me they exchanged $50 American for just enough to get a taxi, lunch, and a dorm bed. Lesson learned, that’s how you do it.
Transportation to Antigua can be arranged in advance with a company called Adrenalina Tours. With this option you will have a driver waiting for you at the airport, and if you have multiple people who all booked at the same time it can be cheaper. The other option is taxi and collectivo. Simply just go out of the airport and you will find taxis waiting, and information desks to ask questions about best options for you.
The ride to Antigua is about one hour out of the city, Enjoy your first taste of the green landscape that is Guatemala.
Antigua
This little colonial town is the hub for backpackers who are traveling around Guatemala, and preparing to continue journeys south to Nicaragua or North to Mexico.
The streets are easy to navigate and feel safe and most hours of the day and early evening. Most of the streets lead into the main Plaza Central Park, where you can visit the St James Cathedral and enjoy some local food and coffee in the park.
Photo Credit: George Biffen
Food In Antigu
Depending on what time of year you visit Antigua, it can be perfect soup weather most nights. No matter the temperature, a quick rain storm will come like clockwork each day at 5pm.
Some of the most popular local dishes are stews and soups like Pepian. I would walk up and down the old street and just pick a restaurant at random. On a rainy cold night I walked in to La Casa de las Sopas ( The House of Soups). The space was small and dark, but the old wooden tables and traditional bright colored place mats made it feel very authentic.
The menu is filled with traditional soups and stews. In Antigua, the locals who work at these establishments are very friendly, and always willing to take time to help you figure out the menu, and hear you order in broken Spanish the best you can. Don’t feel shy to ask for suggestions and practice your Spanish in Antigua, the people are very nice.
If you are shy, the point at a picture on the menu trick works as well. My first time there I had the Caldo de Gallina (chicken soup), and I returned three times before leaving Antigua, bringing friends who I have met at hostels to share these amazing soups.
Drinks and Nightlife In Antigua
Antigua has a pretty good drinking scene, mainly because the amount of backpackers passing through each day. The bar choices and nightclub are limited, but all the spots are fun for both foreigners and locals.
Since Antigua is set in such a beautiful valley surrounded by volcanos, you can’t go wrong with a cocktail on a rooftop bar. These can be found all around the town, and normally have good happy hour deals on Beer, Wine, and Vodka. You can find hard liquor like whiskey, rum, scotch, and tequila in Antigua but its not very popular and can be expensive in Guatemalan terms.
I drank a lot of local beers while in Antigua, ranging from Brava to Gallos, they are seem to taste the same to me, and for $1 each, who cares. Enjoy a beer on the rooftop at golden hour as the sunsets, and the thunder roars from the incoming quick flash rain. Its one of the most beautiful scenes for a happy hour in the world.
If you are a night owl, you have a few options. Most of the hostels in the area have a bar and put on a pretty good party for the guests and friends. You can never go wrong with a hang in a hostel. That is where you are most likely to meet locals who will make suggestions on where to go out depending on what you are looking to do. Night clubs for dancing, local live music bars, American bars, and of course dive bars.
Hostel Tropicana
The most popular hostel to find a big party at is Tropicana, and one to find a mellow party is Two Monkeys. Tropical is notorious for its party, with an indoor pool and patio.
The go to must see bar is Café No Se. A local dark and vibey Mezcal joint with live music. It is a great place to meet locals and travelers alike.
After Hours
SHHH…If you are really one for the all-night party, make friends with some locals and ask them to take you to a after hour pool party. But keep it on the down low, because this is a underground local secret.
Overall Antigua and most of Guatemala are very safe places. The same pricipals of safety apply here like in any country. Be careful who you talk to and hangout with, try to go out in groups, and have your wits about you at all times.
Hostel Antigua reviews:
Good private rooms for very cheap. Comfortable beds, with warm blankets. The hostel has a nice patio that provides a free breakfast each morning included in your stay. You can choose from three options for food. The portions are good and so is the food.
This is a good place to stay on your first night, as you figure out your plans for the trip.
Dorm Rooms and Private rooms available. Coffee and Water available all day. Rooftop Terrace access. Great community vibe, everyone here hangs together in the communal spaces. Fun activities and bar for evenings, as well as great organized activates for around town. Rated as one of the best backpacker hostels in Antigua, and I would 100% agree with that. It’s a must stay.
2 DAY TREK OF VOLCAN ACATENANGO
One of the most challenging treks in Guatemala is the Acatenago volcano 2 day trek. Acatenango is the third highest volcano summit in Guatemala at an elevation of 13,000ft, and it sits directly adjacent to Volcan Fuego, which is one of the world mosts consistently erupting volcanos.
Picking A Tour Company
Going on a trek on your backpacking trip has two major benefits. The first is an experience of a lifetime, and the second is an opportunity to make some really great friendships with other backpackers from all over the world.
I try to do my treks at the beginning of my trips so that if I do make so great friends, we can spend time together after in town, or if it works out even travel to some other places together. In Antigua you can find multiple tour companies that arrange guided treks to the top, and hostels also can arrange this for you.
I prefer to find a local company on my own. This can sometimes save you money, but also the experience can be a tad more unique and or intimate to what everyone else from the hostels are doing in large groups. I did research on tour companies before leaving the US. After emails to a few companies with questions regarding rain, gear, and storage I went with OX Expeditions.
I signed up for the two day tour, that provides you with a guide for the trek up to the campsite that sits just below the summit. Once at the campsite you will set up camp, enjoy some traditional Guatemalan food and wine, and with some luck a firework show from Volcan Fuego.
The tour company had a mandatory orientation the night before we were set to leave. There we met the other trekkers, picked out some warm clothing to borrow, and a sleeping bag. We also met our guide, who was a professional summit hiker, who competed in timed competitions to the summit some of the world largest peaks. He was short at 5’5, but would prove to be one of the strongest persons I have ever met.
We also had Michelle and Craig from Australia, George from England, and an older American church leader who we named jefe, because he rode a donkey up the mountain. Our group was small, but because of that we supported each other the entire trip and become a very close.
OX Expeditions provided lockers at basecamp in Antigua, where you can store items you did not want to carry in your pack. Most people used the same backpack they are traveling with, but left behind a lot of items in the locker to make rooms for warm clothes, water, and food.
The Trek
As the sun rises you meet with your group and pile into vans that will be taking you to the start of the trek. The night before you can go to the local grocery store to get supplied with water (you need a lot) snacks, and if you are good at planning grab your breakfast for the next morning.
Since most of us were not great planners, our van made a quick pit stop at the local coffee shop for caffeine and breakfast provisions.
When you arrive you can get some last minute water, snacks, hats, and walking sticks from a very cute shack ran by a local family and their dogs. We hung here for a bit while our guide arranged porters and a donkey for the American we called jefe. We played with the dogs and contemplated if we needed to buy a walking stick. Only the Aussie couple purchased the sticks, and it would prove to be the best purchase they ever made, and the biggest mistake the rest of us made.
It was time to begin our five to six hour trek to the campsite. The trail winds its way through four distinct ecosystems, starting with a lush and fertile agriculture fields where farmers are harvesting corn flowers, and peas.
As you climb the trail ascends into a tropical cloud forest that is home to many diverse flora and fauna, and is a key location for shade and comfort before the steep slope push to the top.
Along the way there is many places to rest and purchase drinks and snacks from vendors who setup along the trail. After some rest and a small lunch you make the final push into the volcanic terrain. Here is where we make camp and prepare for the cold windy night to come.
The view from the campsite is mind bending and breath taking. You have sweeping views of the Antigua Valley, and truly are living above the clouds. If that was not enough, Volcan Fuego sits just a few kilometers away, and every few minutes erupts in a crashing cloud of dust, smoke and fury. From the safe distance of your campsite, its one of the most incredible sites I have ever seen.
Camping Overnight-Acatenango
Photo Credit: George Biffen
At night we sat by the fire and enjoyed a fresh cooked meal by our guide and a glass of wine as the stars shined bright overhead and Fuego erupted now in red and yellow sparks into the air.
One word of advice, don’t drink more than a beer or one glass of wine. The elevation and a hangover is something you don’t want to experience. Trust me!
At night our tent rattled from the wind, as a very dense clouds rolled in covering the entire mountain. At one point you could not see no more than a few feet in front of you, but the crash of Volcan Fuego erupting would cut through the clouds and shake the ground.
Huddled together as three to a tent, our wake up call was 3am to begin the hike to the top of Acatengo. We packed up our gear, changed into warm clothes and starting hiking up. The sun began to show herself and the light was like a guide showing us the way past trees, and rocks as the trail went up higher and higher.
The Summit - Acatenango
Going to Guatemala alone to do this trek was scary, and I knew that I would be a challenge. When I reached the top of the volcano and achieved my goal of summiting Acatengao, the feeling of accomplishment, happiness, and freedom overtook my body. No one could take this away from me, and It would a memory I would cherish forever.
All of us in the group embraced together in celebration. You will be joined at the summoit by all the other groups with hikers from all around the world. We met people from Ireland, Brazil, Japan, and Russia.
It was easy to meet someone and have a cheerful conversation and share a picture together, because we all were riding high on the achievement of being on the top of the volcano. Before the sun completely rose over us, a beautiful silloutees shadow could be seen of hikers gathering for group photos from all point of the volcano crater. Just off the edge was a sea of clouds, colored white, yellow, and red. Fuego stuck out in the distance and began to again erupt on command. Everyone would stop and watch as the eruption again blasted a huge cloud of dust into the air, and made a thunderous crack across the Volcano crater valley.
Photo Credit: George Biffen
I spent some much needed time alone to reflect and just be present in the moment. It was my 30th birthday and I could not imagine a better birthday present to myself.
Going down is always a drag, and this was no exceptions. It’s a long day of hiking with limited breaks so we can get to the van before nightfall. Each of us sort of found our focus and went at our own pace, inspired to get to a warm shower and a cold beer.
That night we celebrated my birthday the proper way with a night out in Antigua. Me, George from England, and Michele and Craig from Australia together again.
Check my video of Fuego Erupting HERE
What Hiking Gear Do I Use?
Backpack: TETON Sports Scout 3400
Rain Jacket: Portwest Classic Rain Jacket
Headlamp: Ozark 200
Reusable Bottle: CamelBack Shute 1L
Insect Repellent: Picaridin
PANAJACHEL AND LAKE ATILAN
Panajachel is a town in the Guatemalan Highlands, west of Guatemala City. It is on the north shore of Lake Atitlán. Surrounding the lake are the San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán volcanoes. Cafes, bars and stalls selling handicrafts and textiles line Calle Santander, the main street. In the old town is the colonial San Francisco Church, with a stone facade. Boats connect Panajachel with lakeside Mayan villages.
Atilan is a body of water located in a volcano carter. It is one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world. Sunshine and crisp blue water surrounded by mountains and volcanos.
Transportation to Panajcahel from Antigua
I have been in Antigua for two nights, and my trip is now officially four days old. Since I was on a short trip of two weeks it was time to head out to the next destination of Lake Atilan. The night before I was set to leave for Atilan, we had a long night of drinking to celebrate my birthday. So that morning I was already feeling rough, and not ready for the two hour bus ride to the small town of Panajcahel, where you find the boat taxis to the towns along the lake.
I bought a ticket for a shuttle leaving the hostel to Pana through my hostel. The shuttle is the more comfortable way to travel, it is usually a mini van that picks up backpackers from different hostels until full, and goes direct to the destination.
The shuttle arrived at my hostel around 8am that morning, and we spent about another hour driving around Antigua picking up more people. Once we were full we started the two hour ride. The ride is smooth along a highway, the views are really great so grab a window seat. We made one lunch coffee and snack stop and to use the bathrooms.
The shuttle drops you off right at the dock for boat taxis. One important thing to note here is not getting scammed.
The moment you step off the shuttle, a boat driver will come right up to you telling you they are government workers with a boat service to any town on the lake. This is not true, they are going to charge you an infalted cost for a ride. Just keep walking past all of these men and go directly to the waterside edge. There you will find men standing on boats yelling out locations of different lake towns. They repeat the town over and over like “ Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz….San Marcos San Marcos, San Marcos.
If you already know in advance which town you want to visit, I suggest you get familiar with what town surround it, so if you are on a boat going to Santa Cruz first, you know the next stop is San Marcos. The boats go in both directions around the lake, so make sure to check with the driver if you want more info.
Hop aboard the boat and tell the man where you are going, he will nod and will have another person take your bag to store. You pay once you arrive at the town you want to go to, so just take a seat once they take your bag.
Sit back and enjoy the lake cruise, Lake Atilan is one of the most beautiful places I have ever traveled to it truly feels like another planet.
Lake Atilan
The lake is surrounded by many villages in which Maya culture is still prevalent and traditional dress is worn . Most of the more well known desinations alonmg the lake are famous for hippies, backpackers, expats, and those that can never satisfy their wanderlust.
The Towns: Most travelers on a budget and little time visit San Marcos and San Pedro. Here you can find good hostels, a good meal, and some adventure like hiking Volcan San Pedro.
San Marcos is known for its hippie culture and yoga inspired community. Yoga. Meditation, and drum circles are an everyday things here. Don’t miss out on jumping into the water at the Reserva Natural del Cerro Tzankujil.
Overall Lake Atilan is a lot to explore. Be respectful to the local and the Mayan culture here and enjoy the energy that the lake provides. Lake Atilan is a safe place to solo travel to, but like any other place just be smart about where you leave your belongings and who you talk to.
Santa Cruz - Lake Atilan
Santa Cruz is a small little town, and is one of the first towns along the route of water taxis leaving Panajachel. It is also where I spent most my time.
The Iguana Perdida is the main hostel in town. The main square of town is at the top of a very steep road, and you can walk up there to see the school and some traditional homes. They do also have a few Tuk Tuk taxis available.
Along the shoreline near the Iguana is a coffee shop (delicious) and an famous party hostel called Free Cerveza. This hostel is well known among the Australian surfer community. And it just a short walk from the Iguana. They are always happy to see someone come by for a beer.
San Marcos is the next town over and along with San Pedro is the more popular destinations. If you stay on Santa Cruz, you can actually hike to San Marcos. The hike is moderate and has very stunning views. It passes through little villages where more indigenous community members are living.
Just check with your hostel about routes, and don’t go alone.
La Iguana Perdida Hostel
I never planned to stay at this hostel, but if you read my story about how I ended up here, you know it might of well been meant to be. If you had to use one word to describe this place, that word would be family.
The hostel was small and beds get booked up in advance by expats, and locasl alike. Diddles reputation as an awesome host has spread across the backpacking community. I was lucky not to only meet her, but also be invited to stay there last minute. (See my story)
Each night the hostel holds a family dinner, where everyone comes together. Due to the fact that the hostel also has no wifi, you spend a lot of time getting to know your fellow hostel mates and just relaxing along the lake.
You need to experience this place for yourself and whatever else I may write wont do justice. So trust me, and make it a stop along your way. They have dorms beds and private rooms, the staff is very friendly and helpful to make future travel plans.
Read about how I ended up at the La Iguana Perdida by chane
Flores
Flores is a town in Guatemala’s northern Petén region. It’s on an island on Lake Petén Itzá. Flores is known as a gateway to nearby Mayan ruins of Tikal.
Getting Here
If you are in Antigua and want to visit Tikal, you have two options. Take a small plane or an overnight bus. There is a third option of taking local bus all the way, but I advise against it. I took the local bus by mistake and it was a long long day.
Flores - Guatemala
Flores is a very beautiful Island town, with bright colors and narrow alley ways leading to different restaurants and stores around the town. Flores is surrounded by the third biggest lake in Guatemala, Lake Peten Itza. The picturesque town of Flores Guatemala offers you the chance to enjoy stunning landscapes, and cultrual activites.
The weather here is mostly hot and humid, so be prepared to sweat. I would recommend you look for a hostel with A/C..
Across the bridge you can easily walk to Santa Elina to the shopping center. There you can get supplies, food, and money
Walking Around Flores
Once the sun starts to set and the temperature drops a bit, the best thing to do is just walk around and explore Flores by foot. You can walk around the entire Island in a few hours, so give yourself time to sit and enjoy the culture of the different locations around the city. You can see some really old buildings and churches, and the colors of Flores shine bright even at night.
I spent a lot of time at the water’s edge watching the sunset over the horizon. Then take a quick walk to the community basketball court to watch the locals in a pickup game. The only catch is the court has no lights. They still find a way to play in the dark, by only moon light since the heat makes it almost impossible to play at any other time.
Then for food you can really just pick a random restaurant to eat at. The vibe of most of the places feels like you are eating right in the kitchen of someone’s home. The street food in the main street of Flores is delicious and a go to as well.
Los Amigos Hostel
Great hostel, and probably the most popular in Flores for budget backpackers. Like I mentioned before the AC dorm beds are very clutch, and the AC works really well. The Hostel has a lot of open communal space, that is setup like you are inside a lush Oasis. You will love the water misters that go perfectly with the cold beer. Most people hangout here all day to beat the heat and wait for the sun to go down. The hostel also has an ok restaurant, with a menu filled with cuisines from Italian food, to American food. No real traditional Guatemalan food however.
I made friends with all of the local staff, and one afternoon they invited me and a few other hostel guests out on the lake in their conaoes. As the sunset in the distance, we paddled along the lake togehther. After a few boat races and picture taking, we noticed a small motorized boat approcahing. To our suprise it was the bar tender from the hostel. His name was Pedro, and he who was originally from Mexico. He came to suprise us with a flask of rum and more laughs to share with amazing jokes. We all eventually just sat in silence and floated down the lake, and in the distance a lighting storm was going off for our entertianemnt. This experience is why I love to travel the way I do, and it is the people who really give you the memories to last forever.
Tikal
Tikal National Park encompasses 575 square kilometres of jungle and thousands of ruined structures. The central part of the ancient city alone contains 3,000 buildings and covers about 16 square kilometers
Sunset Tour of The Tikal Ruins
Visiting Tikal was the main reason I traveled up to Santa Elina and Flores. Although as you have read the area is worth a visit on its own. You have a few options to visit the Tikal Ruins; you can go for a sunrise tour, a sunset tour, or just go on your own at any time and link up with a tour on site. After chatting with a few new friends in the hostel, we put a small group together to do the Sunset Tour, and we arranged it though the hostel at Los Amigos. Prices will vary from company to company, so if you are on a budget I suggest you walk around town and visit a few other tour companies to do some comparison.
In addition to the tour fee for the shuttle ride and tour guide, there is an additional entrance fee to Tikal. When I was in Guatemala the entrance fee was 200Q. Do not give the fee directly to the driver, make sure they take you to a bank or another official government building to pay the entrance fee and receive your receipt. Our guide was very helpful with the process and spoke great English to answer all of our questions. Having a good English speaking guide is also worth the extra cost for booking through the hostel.
Once you arrive at the site, you begin the tour by entering the ruin area by foot. The whole tour took about two hours, and since we were a sunset group we had almost the entire park to ourselves as the sun went down. Sitting on the temple steps, we listened to the wind and birds as the sun was dropping behind the tree line. One of our friends played his digeridoo (which was used by ancient Maya to call on the rain).
That is exactly what happened, a massive rain storm came crashing down on us with fury of lighting and thunder. We took shelter under the tree canopies and waiting for it to pass. I felt so connected to the energy and the power that this land represented so many years ago. Like most of my stories about Guatemala, it was another magical moment.
See River playing his Digeridoo ontop of one the Temples HERE
